Sao Paulo, New Years, and Ca-Dee Coco’s Maiden Voyage

With Christmas done and gone, memories of the party…travelers, beers, dancing, and drunken Christmas morning sunrises are all in the past.  All that is left, like scraps of wrapping paper under the Christmas tree, is a hangover and the need for a plan for New Years day which is quickly approaching.  Fortunately I had hopes to spend New Years in the company of old friends, Moose (AKA Jr.), and Porco (AKA Henrique).  My old roommates and partners in crime, I had lived with these two Brazilian cohorts for some time back in California in an old house in Hollywood.  A time that is lit with memories of house parties, hiking trips, Brazilian barbeques, wine on the roof, road trips to Las Vegas, and general merrymaking.  Four years had passed since they had left The States to return to Brazil and since I had promised I would visit them soon.  Better late than never, I alerted them of my presence in Brazil.  I can’t describe how great it was to be reunited with them, it reminded me of the joys of long overdue reunions, of the importance of friends and in keeping them in your life even if distances between you are great.  So Jr. and his girlfriend Vanessa, who he met when he was living with me in Hollywood and who I also knew from those bygone times, received me with welcome arms in their apartment in Sao Paulo (SP).  Henrique lived in a neighboring city an hour away and promised to drive down every chance he got.  And like this my adventures in Brazil began to take shape.

Reunited. Jr., Vanessa, Henrique, and me playing Pass the Pigs. Soooiiiiiieeeee!!!

So after the excitement of seeing each other again had wound down and we had sufficiently caught up over some nice dinners shared in their apartment with wine and candles we set off making plans for New Years.  No one wanted to stay in SP for this occasion so the next logical option was the beach.  Phone calls were made and research was done to reveal that of course there was no available places to stay in any of the beaches within two hours of Sao Paulo which sits about 50 miles (80k) inland. Hotels and hostels had all been booked months in advance.  I was about to feel dejected when Jr., always a sharp thinker, pointed out that Hotels are only good for sleeping in and besides that they cost money, why spent money on a hotel when we could just skip the sleeping part and spend the cash on Caiparihnas (kai-pur-EEN-ya)  purchased on the beach amongst the 1000’s of other revelers?  (A Caiparihna is kindof the national cocktail of Brazil, a mix of cachaça [Ka-SHA-sa…the national alcohol, a potent firewater made from sugar cane], a ton of lime, sugar, and ice.  Best drank in multitude and on a sandy hot beach.)

This ingenious plan was quickly adopted and put into action and Me, Jr., Henrique, Vanessa, and her Sister Bianca piled into the car and drove to Guarujá beach where all went as planned.  Thousands of people dressed in white (a Brazilian New Years tradition that symbolizes the purity of the year to come) filled a beach several miles long, fireworks and cachaça were abundant and kept us fueled until the sun rose straight out of the ocean, a site that outdid all the fireworks that preceded this grand finale and which was our cue to run like the drunken fools we were into the ocean to jump seven waves (another Brazilian new year’s tradition for good luck).  Swimming in the warm Atlantic waters, my brain contentedly bobbing inside my head, surrounded by an orange sunrise on New Year’s day, I realized that in all my travels around the world this was the first time I had ever swam in the Atlantic Ocean.  A fitting new adventure to start a new year.

Dinner before the fesitvities
Dinner before the festivities
The Scene on the Beach
The Scene on the Beach, the beach was 2 kilometers long and full of people and fireworks all night.
Abandoned corn vendor. Sunrise, just after a swim in the ocean.

Speaking of new adventures, one day the idea occurred to me that it might be fun to buy a car and drive it to Colombia…save on bus fare, pick up passengers along the way to add to the fun, and something I could sleep in to save money on hostels.  I brought the idea up with Jr. who was quick to point out that it isn’t possible to get a car across the Amazon River and who had his doubts whether a gringo could legally own a car in Brazil.  I had just assumed there had to be some sort of bridge or something but research confirmed that indeed, you could not drive along the Brazilian coastline and cross from one side of the Amazon Delta to the other in a car but that it was possible to legally buy a car if you were willing to brave some rather turbid beaurocratic waters.  Rather than give up on the idea I just decided that I could sell the car once I reached the Amazon and Jr. promised to help me navigate the seas of bureaucracy.  And so another harebrained scheme was put into effect.  Jr. went WAY above and beyond all normal duties of a friend in his dedication to helping me make this idea a reality and Henrique chipped in when he wasn’t stuck in the office in his neighboring city.  Ill spare you all the painful details of beaurocratic nightmares and hours spent looking for cars online and driving around Sao Paulo in the rain to check out the promising ones (Drove two hours one day to a dealer to see a car that was supposed to have 93,000 kilometers on it only to discover once I was behind the wheel test-driving it that there was a “1” in front of the 93,000….an observation that the car dealer claimed to have missed himself until I pointed it out to him), but I will say that it took more than a week, pretty much 6-8 hours a day dedicated to the cause, before I had the reins in my hands.  So without further adieu…allow me to introduce my travel companion.  Senora Ca-Dee Coco…

Zen And The Art of Driving Through Tropical Countries Without Air Conditioning

I bought it from a really cool guy who ran a paragliding school, hence the decals which translate into CLOUD-INVADORS.COM.BR,  SCHOOL OF FREE FLIGHT.  She has no stereo, no air conditioning, no power locks, doors, steering…well not much power in the engine either.  But she is the most roadworthy and reliable travel companion a vagabond could ask for.

So before I take you for a ride in the VW bus, let me speak a little of Sao Paulo.  After all, I did end up spending almost 3 weeks there including my 31st birthday (spent in the Chinatown district of SP at an all you can eat sushi place).  So how to describe it… Its big (seventh largest city in the world), there is lots of traffic, and it rains a lot, like every day and not just rain but proper storms complete with lighting and thunder that will shake the gringo right out of you and remind you that you are not in Kansas anymore.  The flora of the city is very tropical and green but it’s not hot, actually kind of cool at nights.  We did get one nice day in where the sun was out and we weren’t chasing cars and we spent it picnicking in the huge central park where monkeys swing wild from tree to tree and swans chase children across the grass.  The city is not so impressive compared to other metropolises but like any city it has its cool parts.  It was actually nicer than I expected it would be, I guess I expected to see more poverty.  That isn’t to say there isn’t plenty of it, but the central part of the city, which is huge, is all pretty nice and safe.  The poverty is far away in the surrounding favelas, a stark contrast to its sister city Rio de Janiero (more on that later).  I was actually surprised to read that SP is one of the richest cities in the world…I certainly felt like I needed to be rich to stay there.  I was shocked how expensive things were, a ride on a city bus was about $1.75 compared to the 35 cents I was used to in Buenos Aires, the two nights that I slept in a hostel before I met up with Jr. set me back almost $40.  Basically the prices are about the same as things in the US or Europe.  One day, just a couple days before I was planning to drive to Rio in the bus, we sat and watched the news as the rains pounded outside and the reports came in of devastation and death caused by unusually powerful storms in the states of Sao Paulo and Rio De Janiero.  When the rains let up and the damage was assessed we were all shocked to learn that over 600 people had died, the worst natural disaster in Brazil’s history.

This taken from one of the tallest building in SP. I could only get the photostich program to stich 2 of the 4 photos i took, otherwise this would have been double the size. What you see here is only about 1/8 of a full panoramic view.

It was on the heels of this brutal storm that I finally set sail for Rio; I posted a message on the SP Couchsurfing group to see if anyone wanted to join me, that’s how I met Dave, an Irish lass who would be my crew on this maiden voyage.  So the plan was to drive to a small colonial town on the coast between SP and Rio De Janiero called Paraty (pronounced Par-ah-chee), spend the night there and the next morning exploring the nearby beaches and waterfalls, then finish the drive to Rio.  So I picked Dave up from his hostel, we shook hands for the first time and set off into the rainy Sao Paulo night with our trusty GPS nicknamed Ecowapi (Means “where is it” in Swahili, a remnant from my days spent wandering the mountains and deserts of Africa many moons ago) guiding us to our destination.  After a hectic escape from the rain and traffic of SP, Coco purred like a drunken kitten as we careened down the highway leaving me confident that I had chosen a good vehicle to deliver me to Amazonia.  After about 2 hours on the main highway Ecowapi had led us onto a small winding>>  highway that was to take us directly to the coast and to Paraty.  Winding and deserted as it was it wasn’t until it turned into a dirt road that we began to double check Ecowapi’s route.  But sure enough we were on our way. We could see ourselves on the map moving in the right direction and only about 25 kilometers from our destination.  Then the road became more difficult, heavy rains had carved holes and crevasses two feet deep into the red mud road and left giant rocks exposed, the kind that could shipwreck a VW bus if not navigated properly, oh, and did I forget to mention that the road was also steep?  Not just steep but roller coaster steep and we were pointed downhill (A good thing?).  By one AM, after about an hour and a half on this treacherous mud road we had gone about 8 kilometers (5 miles), we hadn’t seen another car in over two hours, and on at least three occasions had had to disembark the bus to find one wheel a half foot off the muddy ground.  On these occasions we would have to stick rocks under the tires or Dave would have to stand on the bumper and bounce up and down so the tires would get traction while I gunned the engine.  So there we were with windows down, dim headlights struggling to illuminate the road ahead, bumping along at about 2 miles an hour surrounded by jungle and jungle sounds and jungle smells.  And so sometime after one in the morning we decided to call it quits for then night.  There were certainly no other idiots on this road other than ourselves so without worrying of blocking the road we put the car in park, turned off the engine and stepped out into the tropical night to breath in the reality and adventure of it all before we crawled in the back of the bus cursing ourselves that neither of us had a drop of cachaça to share with the other and fell asleep.

Parked for the night

We woke up with the sun and shoved off without ceremony.  45 minutes and 3 kilometers later a car appeared in the rear view mirror, another idiot!!! We were shocked and overjoyed to see that this car, a 1970’s Volkswagen beetle was gaining on us.  We slowed to a stop to let him pass us, our mouths agape at the lighting speed of 3 miles per hour at which he passed us.  With confidence renewed we followed our Volkswagen brethren down the road, now amazed to see the stunning beauty and breathtaking scenes of cliffs, jagged mountains, waterfalls and dense jungle that had been hiding from us the night before.  As for the road it got no better or easier to navigate.  We still got stuck frequently and constantly had to get out to asses which of the less treacherous gaps to tackle.  Then, all of a sudden, with about 12 kilometers to go on the GPS, we turned a corner and found the road paved. We were saved.

There was a beautiful waterfall just to the left of the picture, and precarious cliff off to the right.
Our Volkswagen Friend

And in 5 minutes we went what would have taken us over two hours and we were in Paraty!  So we stop at a hostel to ask some touristy questions and in passing Dave mentions that we had just arrived by car from Sao Paulo.  “Oh from Sao Paulo huh?, beautiful drive along the coast isn’t it”?  Says the man.  The look on our faces would have sufficed to tell the tale but I managed to say “Uhhh, we didn’t take the coast” this reply brought a knowing grin across the man’s face proceeded by a chuckle and his reply…. “GPS right?”, “Yea” we answer, waiting for his punchline which comes…  ” ‘Shortest route possible’ “?

So after we laughed off our near disastrous adventure we set off to explore our new paradise.  The town was picturesque and colonial, just as described in Dave’s guidebook.  Narrow cobblestone streets that flood when it rains leaving a glassy river of water have earned it the name “The Venice of Brazil”.  The town was great for photographs and a nice walkthrough but we were eager to find a beach worthy of drinking a beer on so we piled back into Coco, picked up provisions at a local market and headed to some tiny beach where we passed some time swimming with the locals and hanging out on the beach.  From there we made several other detours off the main road to other smaller more deserted beaches and one beautiful waterfall that was a short drive off the main road and about a 1 kilometer hike through a jungle trail.  We were the only people there and I thought to myself….This is why I bought a car…total freedom!

Paraty
One of 4 beaches we stopped at along the way
Only a small part of the waterfall, there was much more above and below this.

We finished the day driving the rest of the way to Rio, arriving just in time for the evening rain flurry and rush hour traffic but Ecowapi guided us well through the outskirts of the city and into Copacabana beach where Dave had booked a bed at a hostel.  I thought I had a couch lined up for my first days in Rio but when I checked my email at Dave’s hostel I found that my host hadn’t gotten back to me with an address.  It was Friday night and Dave’s hostel was booked and i really didnt want to sleep in the bus in such a big city.  There are dozens of hostels in Copacabana I thought; surely one will have a bed.  I probably covered 20 blocks and hit 10 hostels, all full.  At almost 2am I found a newspaper in the street, taped it to Coco’s windows (I still hadn’t put up the curtains I had made) and spent my first night in Rio sleeping in the bus.  I awoke the next morning to the bustle of Rio De Janiero where I have spent the last 10 days comfortably forming the opinion that it is one of the most dynamic and interesting cities in the world.  But alas, I leave you there, on the streets of Copacabana in the early morning tropical heat, Ate em breve,

PROLOGUE:  I arrived Copacabana on January 14th…as you can see Im a bit behind in my blogging.  I’m currently in Salvador, Bahia.  I hope to get another blog post out this week.  To see more pictures from this post click here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59170494@N05/sets/72157625989025748/

LA RUTA DE COCO

Argentina, Paraguay, & Christmas in Brazil

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and
adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we
seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru

The adventures have certainly picked up steam since my last post and the road ahead seems to be littered with more adventures ripe for the picking.  My last post was from Mendoza Argentina, wine country.  The city of Mendoza is rather large by Argentina standards and although it is a really pleasant, clean and nice city to walk around in, there is no real attraction other than the surrounding vineyards and mountains (It’s at the foothills of the Andes).  Everything closes at 1pm for siesta and to avoid the heat and then reopens at around 5pm.  At 9 or 10pm the main streets are still filled with people shopping for shoes and clothes or running errands.  I spent almost a week in Mendoza trying to scrounge up some work in a vineyard or tasting room but there was no work to be had for a foreigner without papers. Even though I was willing to work for food and housing, all the proprietors I spoke with said that the authorities would never believe that I wasn’t getting paid and they didn’t want to invite trouble.  So after several days of hunting for jobs I threw the Spanish resume in the trash and decided to enjoy the wine as it should be enjoyed in Mendoza, in abundance and on bikes.  As much as I love traveling alone, drinking glass after glass of wine in the middle of the day seemed like something better done with a partner in crime…enter Mademoiselle Flo. Also a couchsurfer, Flo was on a 6 week jaunt through Argentina from her home in France.    So we rented bikes and rode around the wine country outside of Mendoza for an afternoon sampling the local goods (some not so good).   We got along swimmingly and since we were heading in the same direction we ended up traveling together for the rest of the week.

I also had the luck to couchsurf in Mendoza with a guy named Horacio who really made my time in Mendoza memorable.  Haracio is from a small town in Argentina in the mountains but is in Mendoza studying graphic design.  I met some of his friends and spent a couple of great nights cooking, drinking beers, and playing music.  One night we spent hours experimenting with taking pictures with extra long shutter speeds until we finally got one that turned out pretty cool…

From Mendoza I went to Cordoba, the second largest city in Argentina and a major commercial and industrial city.  Really thought the main reason to visit the city for me was to use it as a hub to explore the surrounding sierras, a virtual outdoor playground of mountains, rivers, lakes, and trails.  Flo was also heading that direction so I met up with her there and shared some more dinners, cheap wine, and adventures…one of which brought us to a small town called Carlos Paz, a day trip from Cordoba.  The town’s main attraction is a 25 foot tall Coocku clock and the lake that it sits on but for us it was a street mutt who befriended us while we were picnicking alongside the lake.  We named him Coronelito Paz.  We spent hours walking around the lake and through the city with him following us around playing fetch with whatever stick we could find and jumping in the water together.  And then as quickly as he appeared in our lives he was gone…trotting off down the sidewalk in search of his next diversion.  Wherever you are right now Coronelito, we miss you.

Coronelito Paz
Villa Carlos Paz
Villa Carlos Paz

 

The highlight of my time in this region and the whole reason I was there was to do some camping in the sierras.  So after a bit of planning and packing I said goodbye to flo who was heading back to Buenos Aires and I set off with a backpack full of food and wine in search of mountaintops to eat on top of and stars to drink under.  The first night I spent camping in Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condor.  I hiked into the park about a mile and half, threw my big pack down and then did a loop that took me another 8 miles or so past a huge 2000 ft. (600m) cliff where there are dozens of Andean Condors nesting and circling around.  Luckily it was a warm day so there were a few of them riding the heat thermals.  They have the largest wingspan of any bird on the planet (can reach 11 feet [3.2 m]).  After a long day hiking I settled down for the evening in a small grassy clearing.  I was the only person camping in the whole park which was nice. I spent the evening drinking wine to forget my surprise at how cold it was.  I didn’t have a tent so slept out under the stars and woke up feeling surprisingly fresh and covered in frost.

  • Cliffs at Parque Nacional Quebrada Del Condor
  • Hiking back to the road as the sun rose
    El Condor Pasa
    Waking up with the sun

    I hiked out of the park back to the main road where I spent about an hour and a half throwing rocks at cans and reading while trying to hitch a ride to the next town.  (there aren’t really and buses in this area and it’s not uncommon to hitchhike).   My first ride was a guy who owns a restaurant; he drove an old 78’ Chevy pickup truck all rusted out. The seatbelt had been cut so it could be used as a rope to hold the passenger door closed.  We bumped down the highway chatting about how indecent Argentine curse words are and he taught me a few new ones.  He dropped me at a fork in the road and my next ride was a cool truck driver hauling 48 cows behind him.  We drank mate and talked about all sorts of things.  He dropped me in a town called Nono.  From there I hiked out of town to a nearby river.  I bought a cold beer (All they had was Budweiser) at a little kiosco on the way and drank it with my sandwich while hanging out in the sun on the bank of the river sharing the breeze with a bunch of cows that frustratingly would not let me pet them.

    From there it was back to the highway, rock and can games, sun beating down on my neck and dirt in my ears for a while until I got a ride from a couple of guys from Quilmes to a town called Cruz Del Eje.  By the time I got there it was nearly 9pm and I got the last bus to a town about a half hour away called San Marcos Sierra, known for being a super laid back very small “hippie” town of about 2,000 people.  I got off the bus at the “main square” around 10:30pm to find an American folk band playing on a little stage to a plaza full of beautiful hippies (Really, the people were all extremely good looking, some of the most beautiful women I have ever seen).

    I slept that night in the municipal campgrounds two blocks from the main plaza and 100 yards from a small river that runs through the town.  I sat up in my sleeping back at about 7am squinting in the early morning light and saw two scrubby looking guys sitting at a park bench signaling for me to come over.  So I climbed out of my sleeping back, put some clothes on and cruised over to my friendly neighbor’s campground.  They were a couple of Argentinean kids in the early twenties.  In lieu of sleep they had opted to spend the whole night drinking wine mixed with coke out of a two liter plastic bottle that they had cut in half with a pocket knife.  The wine along with a joint were promptly offered to me along with enthusiastic stories of their adventures climbing a nearby hill that they had conquered barefoot to watch the sunrise.  The hill and its immense size along with all their scratches and scrapes from bushes and thorns were pointed out to me about a half dozen times in 5 minutes.  After lots of high fives and thumbs up they let me go back to my stuff which I packed up and threw on my back to head towards a place called Tres Piletas, about a 5 mile walk down an extremely hot and dusty road out of town to a little oasis in the middle of a very desert environment with sparse thorny vegetation.  I spent another night here sleeping out and swimming and trying to keep in the shade and enjoying the fact that I was the only person camping there before I packed up and headed back to the big city plan the next adventure.

    Tres Piletas, the Desert Oasis

    Speaking of next adventure…what do you know about Paraguay?   That was the question I had been putting to Argentines and other backpackers for several weeks.  If you tried to answer the question in your head as you read it, the answer was probably the same that I got “not much” or “Nothing”.  The only thing that Argentines could tell me about it is that that is where they go to buy cheap electronics, just crossing into a border city and then immediately crossing back.  One day when I was in a hostel in Cordoba I asked to borrow someone’s guide book, The Lonely Planet South America – basically the backpacker’s bible…the book everyone uses.  I flipped through searching for the Paraguay section hoping I could fill some holes that everyone else had left open and was shocked to find that there was none!  The Lonely Planet South America just skipped Paraguay because there is no tourism and no one ever goes there.  So my mind was made up then and there.  I was going to Paraguay.   Only problem was that I wanted to be in Sao Paulo Brasil for Christmas and still needed to stop to check out Iguazu on the way so I only had a few days to spare.  Nevertheless my mind was made up so I headed north.

    After about 20 hours on buses I landed myself in a small town on the border of Argentina and Paraguay called Clorinda.  From some internet research I knew that US citizens had to pay $50 for a visa to get into Paraguay, but I had also heard that if you are sneaky enough to find a way to bypass the somewhat lax immigration control at the border that you could avoid this.  So I got off the bus in Clorinda and wandered a few blocks from the terminal, feeling with certainty that I was the only gringo who had stepped foot into this town for quite some time.  I found a few guys drinking beers on the sidewalk and asked them what they knew about getting past the customs.  They said they knew it was possible but they didn’t know how.  Then a kid about 10 years old, barefoot, dirty, dark skin and dark curly hair came up and assured me he could lead me to Paraguay safely.  I was confident I could play the dumb gringo role well if any trouble arose (I wouldn’t have to act so much) so I asked him how much.  “Cinco Pesos” he said.  Ok, lets go.  So I followed him a few blocks until we reached a little hill that led to a road where I was instructed to wait for his signal when the coast was clear.  The signal came and I started up the hill –WAIT! Hold on! – was the message I got when I was almost at the top….a car was coming, then again I got the green light so scramble up the rest of the way.  What I saw in front of me was a river and on the other side of it was Paraguay.  I looked to my right down the street that ran parallel to the river and there, about 400 meters away was the immigration with a short line of cars stacked up crossing the border and guys in uniforms walking around.  I didn’t have much time to take this in because my coyote was tugging at my sleeve and pointing to the small wall I needed to climb to begin descending to the bank of the river.  And sure enough, the little kid knew where a little makeshift bridge was made out of wood planks suspended over bricks and rocks that sat in the shallow waters of the river and so I hastily ran across the planks bouncing up and down with two backpacks and a ukulele strapped to my body.  And then, I was in Paraguay.  The little kid led me through a bunch of shacks, chickens and pigs clearing a way for us and local people peaking out of their homes to see the spectacle until we reached a little bus stop, where I was told I could get a ride to Asunsion, the capital just 40 minutes away.

    Paraguay Flag
    • Paraguay FACTS:
    • Exchange Rate- $1 US = $4,600 Guarani
    • Beer in Grocery Store (1ltr.) – $ 1.65
    • Cheap Meal – $2.00
    • 5 hour bus ride – $11
    • Second poorest country in South America (next to Bolivia)
    • Has two official languages, Spanish and Guarani.  Once you get out of the capital you almost only hear Guarani although many people still speak Spanish

    So I only spent a few days in Paraguay since I was in a rush to get to Brazil but I feel like I got a decent idea of what things are like there.  So for all those people who I asked what there is in Paraguay…There is really green landscape with red dirt that reminded me of Africa sometimes, there is Sopa Paraguaya (A bread made from corn meal, animal fat, and cheese), Chipa (A pastery made from corn meal and cheese), there is a lot of yucca root and beef and of course tereré which is mate, just like they drink in Argentina, but they drink it cold.  There are a lot of people sitting in chairs that they drag out to the front porch of their house to sit and drink tereré for hours complaining of the heat, ah yes, and there is heat lots of heat.

    My memories and observations of Paraguay are drawn from my experiences in the capital, Asunsion where I spent a night in a dodgy hotel room near the bus terminal (there are no hostels In Paraguay), on a bus where I sat next to a really amazing Paraguayan psychologist who volunteers with children and who spent 3 hours teaching me everything about Paraguay, a short stay in a small city called Caaguazu, and my time with Angelíc in small city called Coronel Ovieto.

    Laundry Day in Hotel Room Near Bus Terminal, Asunsion, Paraguay

    When I did a “couchsearch” for the whole country of Paraguay there were 100 people that came up, more than I would have thought, but only a couple were in cities that I would pass through.  One of them was Angelíc, an American Peace Corps volunteer who has been stationed in Coronel Ovieto, Paraguay for almost two years now.  Her time with the Peace Corps is almost up but she is enjoying Paraguay so much she is going to extend her time one more year. I stayed with her one night and she downloaded me on all her observations of the culture while we sat in front of her house drinking tereré, watching the sun set and the dogs chase the cars while nipping dangerously close to their tires as they passed.  One of the most interesting things that I learned was the importance of co-ops in the daily life of a Paraguayan.  Even after lots of questions and explanations from Angelíc I’m still not sure I completely understand the way these work into things…it seems like a complex convoluted subject.  But basically almost everyone joins at least one co-op here that could offer services from money loaning, health insurance, schooling, homeowners insurance, etc.  There is a co-op for just about anything.  I asked Angelíc if they were necessary or useful.  Her answer was not a surprise to me, “No, if people would just learn to save their money they would be better off not being part of a co-op, they waste their money on these co-ops which are more often than not mismanaged and dishonest.”

    Coronel Ovieto, Paraguay
    Coronel Ovieto, Paraguay
    Cemetery in Paraguay

    So my brief time in Paraguay led me back into Argentina to a town called Puerto Iguazo on the border of Paraguay, and Brazil.  This is the hub for exploring the famous Iguazu Falls.  I wont say much about the falls, will let the photos do more of the talking.  I will say that it they exceeded my expectations.  Someone I had met in a hostel some weeks before had described it as like being in the movie Avatar and its true, it’s like being in some magical fantasy world created by CGI graphics.  Waterfall after waterfall pouring over huge cliffs surrounded by vivid green rainforest full of monkeys and coatimundi (like a South Americna raccoon).  There are rainbows everywhere and swarms of butterflies.  It was unreal.  I wasn’t lucky with the weather unfortunately.  I was only there about an hour and a half before the rain started and never let up so I missed seeing a lot of the most spectacular views while the skies were dry so my pictures of the falls are limited compared to what I could have had if the weather would have cooperated but they at least give you an idea.

    Iguazu Falls
    Iguazu Falls

    From Iguazu I traveled about 18 hours to Sao Paulo Brasil, arriving on Christmas Eve.  BRAZIL!!!  I had finally arrived.  I had the afternoon to kill before I met my couchsurfer and it being Christmas Eve the city was empty and dead.  I took the metro to the neighborhood where she lived and wandered around a bit until I found an old abandoned building that I ducked into.  I spent most of the afternoon there reading and studying Portuguese (my new worst enemy) until it was time to meet Nina, my CS host who turned out to be a true force of positive energy, warmth, and smiles.  I met some of her friends and then we spent some hours just chatting and passing time.  Unfortunately that was about all the time I had with her since we were going different ways that night and the next day she was heading to another state in Brazil to be with the rest of her family.  But I am planning to meet up with her upon her return so hopefully we’ll get to spend more time together then.

    Abandoned Building, Christmas Eve, Sao Paulo

    I had read a post on couchsurfing about a French guy who lived in Sao Paulo and was holding an “Orphan’s Christmas Party” So I spent Christmas Eve partying with a diverse group of Brasilians and travelers from all over the world.  Dancing, crazy French football traditions of diving onto your friends who are seating on the floor and hoping that they catch you, and lots of conversations in lots of languages.  I left the party at about 6am on Christmas morning.  I had about 20 blocks to walk back to my couchsurfers.  And as the sun rose over one of the largest cities in the world, I walked through its empty streets on Christmas Day.  So unlike any Christmas I have ever spent, but one I will definitely never forget.

    Click here to view photos from the last month:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/56658782@N07/sets/72157625690833844/

    Prologue:  I last left off in Mendoza, Argentina where I spent some time wine tasting and looking for a job that never transpired.  I spent some time hiking through and camping in the Sierras in the Cordoba Province of Argentina.  Then I heading North into the mysterious counry of Paraguay for some days before I crossed back into Argentina to check out Iguazu Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the world.  From there I went to Sao Paulo Brasil to spend Christmas.  Im still in Sao Paulo and am in the process of trying to buy a car that I can drive through Brasil up to the Amazon.  Next destination from here will be Rio De Janeiro!

    Argentina

    Argentine Flag

     

    Quick Facts:

    • Exchange Rate- $1US = 3.95 AR Pesos
    • Costs (In US Dollars):
      • Hostel Dorm- $8-12
      • Meal in cheap dodgy restaurant- $3.75
      • Meal in  “Average” restaurant- $7.50
      • Beer (bought in a grocery store, 1liter [33oz.])-  $1.35
      • Beer at a bar (pint)- $3
      • 5 hour bus ride- $18
      • Gas- $3.65 per gallon ($.96 per liter)
    • Total Population- 40,000,000
    • Ranked 8th in the world for largest land mass
    • Buenos Aires has the highest number of Psychologists per capita of any major city worldwide…it is very normal to see a shrink regularly and part of Porteño (Name given to residents of Buenos Aires) culture.  Interestingly enough, BA also has one of the highest rates of plastic surgery of major metropolitan cities as well.

    With four hours to pass in Mexico City, I slipped out of the airport into a surprisingly cold night and headed to the nearest night market that I had become familiar with in past adventures to Mexico City.  A squalid market with little vendor stalls all selling the same assortment of pens, batteries, padlocks, and cellphone covers,  just like 1000 other markets I have seen in dozens of countries.  I sat down on a milk crate (literally) in front of a food stall, a soccer game blaring to be heard above the generators on a tiny old TV.  Ate 6 tiny tacos, paid the hombre the $1.25 that they cost, and headed back to the airport where I tried my luck sneaking into the premier customer rooms  for several airlines but they were all too well guarded.  Then I saw one called The American Express Centurion Club. I thought…“I have an American express card, but I’m not sure if I qualify as a Centurian”, but I dubiously approached the front desk.  Turns out all you need is an AMEX card and you’re in (they only have them in 6 airports worldwide).  Spend the next hour drinking free Grey Goose White Russians (I taught the kid working the bar how to make them, he couldn’t wait to get home and make one for his grandmother) and was served free sandwiches by a cute girl while reclining in a nice chair in front of a flatscreen TV.   Nothing like a dirty dingy night market with pig’s heads hanging on hooks and a nice free lounge with flatscreens, and Grey Goose to give you some perspective.  Although I have chose to spend years of my life seeking out dirty markets and sleeping in mud huts, or under the stars, It’s always nice when luck brings a little luxury, not just for the comforts it brings, but more for the perspective.   As I sat there wishing my plane would be delayed, I hoped that my adventures, my life, would continue to educate me in this way.

    Back in Buenos Aires.  I had forgotten how much I love this city since the last time I was here 4 years ago, when I spent 3 months working in a restaurant.  It’s an old world city with old world charm and a dash of third world flavor.  Go into any of the 1000’s of Parisian style cafes, order a café con leche from a male server in a white shirt, black vest and black bowtie, he wears a little leather holster on his black aproned waist with three little slots, one for his corkscrew, one for his table-crumber, and one for his lighter to be quick to offer a light when someone pulls out a cigarette.  The café con leche comes topped with a nice layer of foam and is served with small shot glass of soda water, a second small shot glass of orange juice, and a tiny cookie.  You will see people sitting at a table, with a cup of coffee or a soda in front of them for hours, just chatting with the person across from them.  No waiter trying to rush them out or griping that they didn’t order food.

    Speaking of food, its beef, milanesa (breaded meat fillet), Empanadas (A baked pastry filled with meat, chicken, onion/cheese, etc.) medialunas (tiny croissants), chorripan (grilled sausage on French bread), dulce de leche, Alfajores (two biscuit-like cookies with dulce de leche in-between and dipped in chocolate), lots of pizza and pasta, superpanchos (hotdogs with shoestring potato chips on top), lots of calabaza (a pumpkin like squash), red wine (Malbec)  and of course yerba mate, it’s a loose tea, slightly bitter, that is drank out of a gourd through a metal straw that has a filter on one end so the loose leaves don’t pass through the straw.  If the next shipment of mate never made it into Buenos Aires I think the entire city would grind to a halt.  People are crazy about it and carry their thermos of hot water and mate equipment everywhere.  Go to a park on Saturday and you will see hundreds of people spread out on the grass taking in the sun and mate.  Drinking it is a bit of a ritual and is a social event, passing the mate gourd from person to person, with plenty of nuanced rules and regulations.

    Empanadas
    Mate, Ready to Drink

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    I sat in a huge beautiful park enjoying the feeling of travel and freedom that was still creeping through me and settling in after only a few days of beginning my trip.  Although I had just left a place, a job, where I ate like a king from the menu of a world class restaurant every day, here I was biting into a sandwich that I had just prepared while laying in the grass that consisted of a tiny French baguette with spreadable cheese on it (Spread with the nearest stick I could find), plain tuna plucked from a can with dirty fingers, and a cucumber sliced up with my pocket knife.  I had bought a cold beer from a guy walking around the park selling it out of a cooler and as I drank it from the can while eating my sandwich I thought to myself, “This is the best lunch I have had in years”.


    I spent about 3 weeks in Buenos Aires and aside from a few nights I spent almost all of that time with couchsurfers.  Ther was the “Art House” that was a real trip.  Anywhere from 4 to 8 people lived there at any given time along with a couple of mangy but cool dogs. A maze of a house, low rent area, stripped walls, and ceilings, minimal attention to cleanliness, walls painted with art and graffiti, the “artists” who lived there spent a lot of time smoking pot, drinking Fernet and coke (If Argentina had a national cocktail that would be it, Fernet is a liquor distilled with herbs, rather bitter with a medicinal taste), and playing drums in the plaza.   They were super cool but I only stayed with them for two days and because of differences in schedules we didn’t get to hang out much.

    Art House Terrace 1 of 2

    I also spent 4 or 5 days with Luciano, a pianist who gives private piano lessons to pay the bills.  We got along great from the beginning and I visited him a couple times after my stay with him.  He just recently joined couchsurfing because he wants to sublease his apartment and start a backpacking trip into Peru and Bolivia.

    Luciano

    Then there was the Martels, Paula and her family, complete with Mom, Dad, and Grandma.  They were really too amazing to begin to try and describe.  I feel like I found a second family in Buenos Aires.  Paula is studying documentary film making in one of the best film schools in Latin America.   We shared a lot of favorites in music, film and books.  Her mom is a political journalist and her father works in international commerce.   They also have two crazy dogs, there is a Dalmatian named Brisa and a mutt affectionately named Ratita (little rat), who are as much a part of the family as an animal could be…oh and lest I forget the turtle, Manolo, that roams the apartment freely.  We almost always ate breakfast together and often lunch and dinner, talked about a little of everything, and learned a lot from each other.  I stayed with the Martels for two weeks.  They were a huge part of my stay in Buenos Aires and I will never forget their kindness and openness.

    The Martels
    The Martels

    So I never planned to spend so much time in Buenos Aires but I spent an extra week trying to work out arrangements to work on an Estancia (Argentine cattle ranch), that in the end never transpired, possibly for the better since I have bad knees that have been acting up since I arrived and began walking so much.  Of course the Martel’s hospitality also played a role in keeping me around BA also.  I spent my days walking the city, visiting some of my old haunts, and generally keeping busy.  I’m sure this will get a laugh out of some of you who are reading this from behind your desk at the office but one thing that I have noted about traveling is that I always have lots of things to keep me busy, to some degree I still haven’t escaped the feeling that there are not enough hours in the day.  I spend a lot of time trying to improve my spanish, reading books, studying vocabulary, etc. (When I go to Brasil it will be Portugese and so on), I also brought a Ukulele on this trip with the intent to learn so I spend time with that everyday, then there is writing in my journal, time in front of the computer organizing and backing up photos, working on the blog and researching and planning for upcoming destinations and couchsurfing requests, and then of course just exploring and observing the local culture, people, places, museums, etc….Ok, I know…have a nice laugh…All I’m saying is that traveling is not sleeping in, hanging around the pool and drinking cocktails (Ok, well maybe sometimes), but really, its more of a huge interactive classroom, but a classroom where to get to the books you have to pass boobie-traps, predators, jungles, and deserts which are as much a part of the education as the books on the other end.  I will touch more in future posts about what it really is to travel but for now I’ve gotta take a break to get another Mai-Tai.

    The city of BA is huge and has tons of very distinct barrios or neighborhoods (44).  I was in BA during the time when the Jacaranda trees are in bloom which was an added bonus…streets and sidewalks painted with purple flowers falling from the sky.  One of the best things about Buenos Aires is the parks.  They are huge and many and well kept and well utilized by the population.  They are also the scene for a lot of making out in public, which seems to be a favorite pastime in Buenos Aires.

    Making-Out in the Park
    Parque de Palermo
    Parque de Palermo
    The City puts on free classical concerts in Parque Palermo every Sunday, these guys were playing for a crown of about 350.

    CLICK BELOW TO HEAR A RECORDING I MADE OF WHAT THEY WERE PLAYING AS I TOOK THE PICTURE ABOVE.

    The city is big and dense (The metro area of BA is 14 million, the second largest city in S. America after Sao Paolo).  Most of the city is covered by buildings that are 6 to 30 stories tall, very few houses.  The metro (subway) system and the bus system is great and efficient and really cheap (30 cents US).  Like most metro systems I’ve known around the world Buenos Aires never has a dull moment, with people getting on singing songs, juggling, or playing guitar for spare change, selling pens or bars of soap…and one day I saw a kid digging into the pocket of German tourist on a packed metro car, I yanked his hand out, called him a thief and made a bit of a scene.  My good deed for the day…when I got to where I was going I checked my email and someone had found my notebook I had lost a couple days before and wanted to return it.  Karma?

    It’s late in the afternoon and the last light of day is soft and pleasant.  A woman wearing a big red clown nose and holding a sign that says “Abrazos Gratis” (Free hugs) is parading around and miming in the middle of a busy but intimate cobble-stoned intersection, jumping in front of cars, jokingly taunting them, the sign dancing up and down.  There are lots of pedestrians around, there is a restaurant on one corner with outdoor seating, and another is the entrance to a park.  They react to her presence with the same mixed interest as the inadvertent participants in their cars, some of which are amused and smile.  Other drivers smile ingenuously, awkwardly, hoping she won’t keep the act up too long so that they can pass.  Others honk angrily for her to get out of the way, some scowl and shake their heads; she fights back with an exaggerated cartoon frown and a shrug of the shoulders as she turns on her heals to recuperate her strength on the safety of the sidewalk.  Then a taxi driver, grey hair, belly, stops in front of her, smiles, unfastens his seatbelt, opens the door and happily accepts the offer for a free hug.  The pedestrian audience erupts in applause.  Our two heroes face the group of people applauding on the sidewalk and hand in hand oblige them all with a theatrical bow before he jumps back in his car.


    I did make one detour during my time in BA.  Paula invited me to go with her to the Mar De Plata Film Festival that takes place in Mar De Plata, a beach city about 4 hours drive from BA.  She had a ride arranged in a friend’s car and a place to stay when we got there so was an easy decision.  Spent a few very easy going days watching films (I also had a free pass to all the films), and just checking out the city which was not too unlike cities in Southern California but with big high rise apartment buildings that all had a third world shabby construction look to them.   I left a couple days before Paula back to BA so I took the train back which was great, reminded me how much I love traveling by train.  This train is known for being pretty funky and dangerous (petty theft)…was certainly funky but I managed to keep my wallet in my pocket.  I sat next to an overweight Jewish kid from BA (There is a pretty large Jewish population in the Capital, 300,000, the largest in any city in S. America).  He was a real sweet kid, 22 years old, he shared his torta with me (like a large empanada) and I shared my sandwich with him.  He was very curious about my past and future travels and at one point told me that in his next life he is going to be like me.  In this life he paints furniture, reads comic books, listens to UB40, and is into anything about medieval times.

    Mar Del Plata
    Train from Mar Del Plata

    …..One thing that for some odd reason I found to be very funny and interesting is the whole thing with “Los Mercados Chinos”.  There are two kinds of supermarkets in BA, the large chain type, and “Los Mercados Chinos” (Chinese Markets).  Funny enough I found that there are also only two kinds of “Chinos” in BA, those who own/operate “Tenedores Libres” (Like cheap all you can eat buffets), and those who own/operate “Mercados Chinos”, the grand majority being affiliated with the latter.   I never saw a “Chino” in any other line of work.   First a side note:  In Latin American countries they have a different idea of political correctness, everyone is called by their most prominent physical feature that sets them apart from the norm, a sort of anti-political correctness…so if I was walking down the street and a stranger wanted to get my attention they would likely just yell “Oi!  Flaco!” (Skinny).  Today at the supermarket when I approach the cashier it was “Que tal Joven”, since I’m young…its “Hows it going youngster?” If your old your “Viejo”, if your fat your “Gordo”, accordingly if your Chinese you are “Chino”.  The difference between the Supermercados and Los Mercados Chinos is that the Mercados Chinos are smaller, usually quite shabby and rundown, often open a little later, and always cheaper.  One day I was in a proper supermarket and was reaching for a bell pepper in the produce section when an old lady literally slapped my hand and said to me in “Sos loco!  Los Chinos se venden por 3 pesos a la vuelta!”  she was trying to save me a peso by telling me that I was crazy to buy produce here when it’s so much cheaper at “Los Chinos”.  The affiliation with Chinos and mercados is so strong that most people just drop the mercado part, so if you are not in your neighborhood and need to find a cheap place to buy a bottle of wine, you just stop the next person you see in the street and ask them “Hay un Chino por aqui?” (Is there a chinaman around here?).  The answer will always be yes, because there are Mercados Chinos every other block for the most part.    These “Chinos” are very much real “Chinos” from The Motherland.  Most hardly speak any Spanish and don’t make much of an attempt to assimilate…you know, come to think of it as I sit here typing, I’m not sure I ever saw a “Chino” on the street or on the metro, outside of their Mercado existence.  Anyways, I dug more into the world of the Chinos asking questions to my couchsurfers and friends.  Apparently there exists a Chino Mafia in BA, there was a killing of 9 people last year, all “Chinos”.  Where did it go down?  A mercado of course.  I also got reports that the reason “Los Chinos” have such good prices is because they buy all the stolen goods from the highway robberies of truckers.

    Un Chino

    A girl is walking towards me on the sidewalk, not beautiful, not even cute, but slim and with bright eyes.  Just as I am about to pass her a taxi driver going the opposite direction she is walking honks his horn and makes the international misogynistic “Hey Hottie” whistle at her.  She keeps walking, a bounce in this step that maybe wasn’t in the previous one, she lowers her eyes and a faint smile appears on her face that is quickly erased when she looks up again and sees that I am watching her.

    Argentine/Porteño people…they love to talk about politics, the newspaper has a section just for politics that is 20 pages.  They love to argue and can get into arguments and debates that by American standards would make you, as an observer, feel awkward.  You feel as if you are witnessing something that you shouldn’t, as if a married couple began a serious argument with each other at a dinner party.  But it’s not like that here.  They just like to debate and argue and it just so happens they also like to shout and use profanity but when the dust clears it’s all smiles and kisses.  Oh yes, kisses.  Everyone gets a kiss on the cheek here.  Guy meeting a guy for the first time…kiss on the cheek.  Saying goodbye to someone on the phone, its “Chau, Beso!”.   Leaving the gathering of your friends to head home…you go to each guy and each girl for a kiss on the cheek.  It’s great.  Argentines are very proud of their country but also very quick to talk (Or argue, shout, or take to the streets and protest) about the troubles they have and the mistakes they are making as a culture or as a government.  Dinner-time is around 10pm.  On a Saturday night it’s not unusual to see a restaurant, a big restaurant, a nice restaurant with waiters in bow-ties with maybe 150 seats, ¾ full of people at 3am, not kids either, couples in their sixties, groups of well dressed adults, families, kids.  Probably finished their dinner at midnight but stay for more beers, coffee, and conversation.  Lots of conversations.

    The people in Buenos Aires are VERY cultured.  Something that really stood out to me.  First of all they read a ton.  There is a bookstore literally on every fourth block, sometimes two or even three on one block.  And unlike bookstores in The States where the literature section is lost in the towers of John Grisam, Anne Rice, and coffee-table books, the Classics section makes up for nearly half the selections in the bookstores.  The city plays a big role in cultivating this culture also, offering all sorts of free cultural events…and people actually go to them.  I happened to be in BA for the bi-annual “Night of the Museums” where 45 different museums around the city stay open till 2, 3, 4 in the morning, some all night…all free with lots of other activities, music performances, dance performances, Tango workshops, theater, etc. all over the city.  All put on by the city.  Even some of the major bus lines and metro lines are free if you have a program for “La Noche de Los Muesos” in your hand, so that everyone can take advantage.  How many people came out for La Noche de Los Museos?  Same as last time…500,000!  On our way to San Telmo from Plaza de Mayo with my CS host Luciano and his buddy from Colombia we passed a line literally two blocks long to get into a museum, old people, middle aged, teenager, kids, all standing in line to get into a museum for free…at 3 AM!!!  The next weekend I went to a ballet production of the opera Carmina Burana that the city put on.  They erected a huge stage in the middle of the main street, Nueve de Julio (The largest street in the world, 16 lanes across).  Free attendance.

    Museum Line 3am (This is just one block, it wrapped around to a second entire block)
    Museum Line 3am (This is just one block, it wrapped around to a second entire block)

     

    An old lady at a crosswalk.  She is THE old lady at the crosswalk.  Comes up to my chest, hunched back, teeth grit.  She shouts at me.  “Estamos en Avenida Rivadaria!?”  I look up at the street sign.  “Si, esta es Avenida Rivadavia”.   “Fine, help me cross the street then”, she shouts.  Not necessarily in a rude way but in that way that an old lady who has lost patience for pleasantries, will shout.  She grabs my arm with the grip of a soldier.  “Vamos!”.  The light turns and we cross.  On the other side of the street I’m about to say my goodbyes when she points to the left “This way!” she tightens her grip and steers me across another street.  I realize that I have been recruited for a mission.  One of my first in the world of youngster obligations to elderly strangers in the street.  I’m excited.  A mini adventure.  Anxious to glean the most from my situation, I begin the conversation by asking her what her name is.  Again shouting…eyes focused straight ahead tiny feet shuffle on the concrete sidewalk…”Name? Name!  Who cares! You can call me whatever you like!”   Again, not rude, just indifferent.  My approach…”Well what name do you like best?  And that’s what I’ll call you.”  Reply, shouting, “Is this a supermarket?”  “No, this is an office building”.  “We have to turn right at the next block!”   And so we continue.  We are being passed by people as if standing still, most look at us, her arm wrapped around mine and clawing my wrist.  Some smile.  This ladies’ smile says “Oh, look how sweet.”  We pass an old guy sitting at an outdoor bistro table with a café con leche in front of him, he probably knows this old nameless woman, another regular character in his barrio, his smile is a lighthearted laugh that says “Another poor sap got sucked into being her a seeing eye dog!”  I smile back to let him know that it’s ok.   I feel like we are moving slower and slower.  It takes almost ten minutes to reach the next block, now in silence.  Me still thrilled at this adventure, wondering where the silence and the soldier grip will bring me.”

    PROLOGUE:

    I published this on December 9th 2010 from Mendoza Argentina, one month after my departure from the US and about a week or so after I left Buenos Aires where I spent about 3 weeks.  I’m hoping to get some work here in Mendoza for a couple weeks in a winery, then will begin to head North towards Brazil.

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